Please enjoy this fascinating article on René Lalique written by one of our Senior Jewellery Valuers here at Quastel Associates; Steven Jordan FGA DGA FIRV FJVA

Introduction: The name "Lalique" conjures up images of opalescent glassware decorated with flowing organic lines, highlighted with birds, cherubs and the female form. 

However, René Lalique was also a leading designer of art nouveau jewellery, producing some of the finest pieces of the twentieth century. He aligned symbolist and art nouveau themes, using such diverse materials as baroque pearls, horn, ivory, amber, tortoiseshell and glass, combined with fine plique a jour enamelwork.

Designing for such prestigious houses as Cartier and Boucheron his reputation grew. He attracted an influential clientele, notably the diminutive tragic actress Sarah Bernhardt, for whom he produced a series of jewellery from 1891 to 1894.

This article will give an overview of his life, relating specifically to his jewellery work, key design features, marks used and auction values. René (Jules) Lalique (1860-1945):

During the years 1895 to 1912, Lalique had been commissioned by the Armenian banker Calouste Gulbenkian to create a series of fine jewels, over one hundred and forty of which are presently owned by the Gulkenkian Foundation, Lisbon.



The fall and rise:

Between the wars, there was a move towards more geometric lines and a favour for more mass produced items.

During the 1920’s and 1930’s, sadly, many of Lalique’s jewels were broken up or remodelled. Even as recently as 1969, when a diamond set fern leaf tiara only fetched £250 at auction, Lalique’s designs were still not appreciated.

In recent decades, perhaps due to such fine exhibitions as the one held at the Goldsmiths’ Hall London in 1987, Lalique’s designs gradually became popular again. For example, in 1989, a late 19th century winged female form pendant sold at auction for £42,000.

A fine art nouveau jewellery collection was auctioned by Sothebys Geneva in November, 1995. The collection had been put together by a Joseph R Pitman and the sale included thirty-three Lalique jewels, many of which were of such importance to have been previously illustrated in noted academic works.

The star lot was a ‘water nymph and dragonfly brooch cloak clasp’ circa 1904-05. The design is comprised of two opposed dragonflies flanking a triangular glass intaglio. It commanded on the day 190,000 swiss francs against an initial estimate 60,000-100,000 swiss francs.